.
Soon after it appeared in Turkish theaters, Nancy and I attended a screening of the motion picture Avatar. I don’t know if our experience represented the norm for all movie houses here, but I want to share our first movie experience in Turkey, another slice of the unique pie that makes this place so intriguing. Here is your guided tour:
.
First, you must find a movie theater. Most large shopping malls feature small cineplexes, but some movie houses can be found in older areas that cater to the evening crowd. The former are easy to find, the latter not as easy. We chose the latter, funkier variety.
.
You will enter the theater through a narrow passaji (corridor); above the entrance will be a small, badly illuminated marquee announcing the films currently showing. You will buy a ticket for an assigned seat, as one might expect for a concert hall or opera house. You can expect to wait in a small gathering space with no concessions. Most ticket holders will choose to wait outside, where they can smoke. When the previous audience has exited the theater, you will be allowed in to find your seat. Ushers will guide you. (Since this was a blockbuster film, if you got a bad seat, too bad; every seat had a butt in it.) The screen curtain will open and the film will begin at the advertised time.
.
Exactly 90 minutes later, no matter what is happening on the screen, the film will suddenly stop without warning. The house lights will come up, the curtain will close, and the majority of the audience will arise and leave the theater to pee, check their phones for text messages, but mostly to go outside and have a smoke. Meanwhile, tray-bearing vendors will ply the aisles, selling candy bars, gum, stale, unsalted popcorn, room temperature cans of soda, hot tea, and bottled water.
.
After a certain interval, the house lights will dim, the screen will re-open and the movie (backed up a few frames to help the viewer get reoriented) will resume without notice, whether the audience has returned or not. Hence, there will be a parade of late-returners reeking of smoke, leaving a muttered "pardon" trail as they step on your toes while blocking your view of the screen.
.
At the end of the film, as soon as the credits and digitally-manipulated orchestral postlude begins, the screen will go black and the audience will begin to exit. Want to know who wrote, composed, directed, etc.? Too bad: time to hit the road, Jack. You will leave through an exit different from where you entered. You will emerge on a back street behind the theater and follow the crowd (remember, there is safety in numbers, ask any schooling fish) to the nearest main thoroughfare. You will squeeze past people seated at tables along the sidewalk eating dinner, drinking and smoking, playing backgammon, etc.
.
We attended the same film in Germany two weeks later, this time wearing those uncomfortable 3D plastic eye abominations. Major differences: a huge theater clearly set aside for its sole purpose, giant neon marquees, rows of concession booths (including a variety of beers), sit where you like, small audience, no intermission, and full credits at the end.
.
I preferred the Turkish experience.
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Upon Being Ozzified
.
Last week, Nancy and I returned to Istanbul from Kansas. In the meantime, we spent a lot of time in Munchkinland, a haunted forest, a witch’s castle, and in the Emerald City (not Seattle). In other words, we were involved in the production of two performances of The Wizard of Oz, with Nancy as pianist, and me as music director. The process began in September and ended April 8. As in any large-scale musical production, staging Oz involved many challenges.
.
To begin with, the musical was offered as one of many Friday afternoon activities for the MEF students, such as art, cooking, football, etc. In other words, the students chose to be in the show, rather than being chosen to be in the show. Hence, auditions took place after the talent pool had selected the directors, not vice versa.
.
Next, most of the cast do not speak English at home. They are all between grades 6-9, and only two of them had ever performed on stage before. Enjoy the variety of names of some of the characters (in order of appearance, of course): Dorothy (Aakriti), Aunty Em (Madihah), Uncle Henry (Andrew), Glinda (Karlina), Wicked Witch (Suzan), Scarecrow (Selin), Tin Man (Cemre), Lion (Melina), Oz (Atif), Coroner (Leonie); Barrister (Pranjal). The company included students with passports* from America, Azerbaijan, England, Germany, Holland, India, Italy, Korea, Pakistan, Russia and Spain.
.
The scripts did not arrive until after rehearsals had begun. Incredibly, they were for a Christmas version (Elfkins instead of Munchkins, Good Witch of the North Pole, etc.) The idiocy needed to send an Xmas Oz to a Muslim country is astounding! Bravo! Let’s all bump chests and high-five the idiots. Therefore, the cast did not have correct scripts (compliments of Michael Muzatko), until mid-October, when Nancy returned from the states following her father’s funeral.
.
Rehearsals usually took place in the performance site, the MEF OkullarI (schools) Auditorium every Friday afternoon from 1:00-2:30. The auditorium is a beautiful wood-paneled, cushion-seated facility, comfortably seating 600. It features a deep stage with a partition that conceals the backstage entryway, a well-placed light and sound booth, a large, fixed projection screen (stage left, next to the booth), a larger retractable screen, stage center, and spot lights located in the ample center balcony.
.
However, both screens are serviced by only one projector, which must be adjusted by hand atop an unsteady ladder propped between the seats. Since there are no hanging mics, only one head-mic designed for singers, and since stand mics in front of the stage are unsightly and prone to being knocked over, the only way to communicate between backstage and the sound booth is via walkie-talkie. In addition, the sound engineer must keep his window open be able to hear the actors. Hence, whenever he needs to communicate with the stage manager, the audience hears the walkie-talkie squawk on and off, and the sound of voices above the actors. Also, there is a giant flag of Ataturk next to the sound booth, so that every time one’s attention is drawn away from the stage by the sound of voices, one gets to enjoy Ataturk’s scrutinizing gaze.
.
The stage is very deep, with no wings nor flys. Hence, all set changes have to be done manually by a crew of six slaves wearing black. There is no room backstage to place the various props and sets, so they are left onstage outside of the central action. For example, the Wizard’s booth, in action, was by necessity positioned beside the gate to Oz, complete with the “Bell out of Order” sign.
.
In addition, we lost several rehearsals, three due to weather-related school closures (snow and predicted floods), others to unpredictable school-related conflicts. Some history: the auditorium is shared between the National and the International schools, separate entities sharing common grounds. The National School was created first, so they frequently use the Auditorium without notifying the International School of their intentions. On several occasions, we had to rehearse in the foyer because the stage was taken.
.
The Witch stole the show. Since she has a good singing voice, it seemed a shame to me for her not to able to use it just because the play did not give her a song. So I wrote her one, to the tune of “If I Only Had A Brain.”
.
I’d be vile and I’d be vicious,
My evil so malicious,
My mission—to abuse.
I would need no rhyme nor reason
To be mean in ev’ry season,
If I only had the shoes.
.
If I had the ruby slippers,
Who’d remember Jack the Ripper?
Ghengis Khan would sing the blues.
I could be another Nero
Burning Rome (he’s my hero!),
But I gotta get the shoes.
.
Making me a tragedy
For all humanity.
They would kneel and bow and beg me,
“Please, no more!”
Then I’d sniff,
And slam the door.
.
By the Winkies I am hated,
So I keep them all sedated.
They got nothin’ left to lose.
There’ll be chaos, there’ll be mayhem.
All my whims? You must obey ‘em,
Once I get those ruby shoes!
.
I was concerned throughout the rehearsal process: rehearsals were too short and too far apart, and several had been canceled or disrupted. As show time drew near, lines were still being dropped, projection was still weak, there were technical goofs, etc. Just what a sensible person would expect of a middle school production, right? In retrospect, I caused myself a lot of lost sleep over nothing. (Ding-dong, the brain was dead. Which old brain? Perfection brain!) The show went well, parents and administrators were happy, and kids’ lives were changed.
.
After all, what do you remember about middle school? The first day, the cool/awful teachers, the victories and humiliations, the first kiss. But most of all, for those of us who were lucky enough ... the first time on stage!
.
For the few of you who have been so burdened by the vicissitudes of life that you may not know one the most famous stories of modern times, here is my plot synopsis from the program:
.
The story begins on the Gayle family farm in the center of the U.S.A., rural Kansas. Dorothy, an orphan, lives with her Aunt Emily and Uncle Henry, and three farm hands, Hickory, Hunk and Zeke, all of whom she loves dearly. Her best friend is her dog, Toto.
.
Act One
.
Dorothy dashes home after having saved Toto from Miss Gultch, an influential neighbor. Dorothy tries to tell everyone what happened, but they are too busy to notice. Aunty Em finally tells Dorothy to find herself a place where she won’t get into trouble. Dorothy walks away and dreams about some place where there isn’t any trouble.
.
Miss Gultch arrives at the farm and produces an official document stating that Toto must be destroyed. The Gayles reluctantly agree. Dorothy tries to escape with Toto, but is stopped by the farm hands. Miss Gultch takes Toto and leaves. Dorothy tells everyone she hates them and never wants to see them again. Suddenly, Toto returns and Dorothy decides to run away with him.
.
She stumbles upon Professor Marvel, a phony magician who reads her fortune and kind-heartedly tricks her into wanting to return home. As Dorothy leaves, a powerful storm develops. Back at the farm, everyone is desperately preparing for an oncoming tornado. Dorothy is nowhere to be found. After they all dash into the storm cellar, Dorothy appears and is immediately swept up by the tornado, losing consciousness.
.
Dorothy “awakes” in vividly colorful Muchkinland, where she is greeted by Glinda, Good Witch of the North, and the Munchkins. Dorothy is celebrated by the Munchkins because her house fell on the Wicked Witch of the East. The celebration is cut short by the arrival of the Wicked Witch of the West who, upon realizing that her sister is dead, seeks to obtain the powerful ruby slippers. Glinda, expecting this, transfers the slippers to Dorothy’s feet. The frustrated Witch threatens Dorothy and exits.
.
Dorothy’s sole desire is to return to Kansas. Glinda and the Munchkins direct her to the Yellow Brick Road which will lead her to the Wizard, for only he has the power to help her get home. Dorothy and Toto depart and soon encounter a Scarecrow who speaks, mocking crows and talking apple trees. After tricking the trees into giving up their apples, Scarecrow joins Dorothy on her quest, hoping that the Wizard will give him a brain.
.
The duo discover Tin Man, who joins them in search of a heart. The Witch reappears, attacks Scarecrow with a fireball, and warns him and Tin Man not to assist Dorothy. Undaunted, the trio venture into a dark forest where they meet the Cowardly Lion, who joins them in search of courage.
.
The Witch again attempts to stop them by placing a field of poisoned poppies in their path. Dorothy, Toto and the Lion succumb to the poison, and Tin Man is frozen in grief. Scarecrow’s cries for help are answered by Glinda, who sends snow to counter the effects of the poppies. Act One ends with the four friends skipping off to Oz.
.
Act Two
.
Dorothy and friends arrive at the gates of the Emerald City, where they are met by a guard (the Wizard in disguise), who refuses them entrance. Once informed that Dorothy is wearing the ruby slippers, the companions are welcomed in and entertained by the Ozians. The celebrations are interrupted by the Witch flying above.
.
Dorothy asks to meet the Wizard and, after some delays, she and her companions stand before the “great and powerful” Oz. The Wizard agrees to answer their requests, but only after they bring him the Wicked Witch’s broomstick. They are aghast, but have no choice but to agree.
Meanwhile, the Witch has sent her flying monkeys to capture Dorothy. They intercept the companions in the Haunted Forest, and Dorothy is carried away to the Witch’s castle. Her friends sneak into the castle and are about to rescue her when they are cornered by the Witch and her armed Winkies. When the Witch tries to set Scarecrow on fire, Dorothy throws a bucket of water in his defense. The water douses the Witch and she melts. The Winkies thank Dorothy for setting them free from the Witch’s spell, and happily offer her the broomstick.
.
Back in the Emerald City, the Wizard again refuses to meet the companions’ requests. After Toto discovers that Oz is really only a humbug manipulating things from behind a curtain, Scarecrow, Tin Man and Lion are granted their desires. Dorothy will have to return to Kansas in the Wizard’s balloon. Before she can climb aboard, however, the balloon carries Oz away and Dorothy is left behind. She is bereft.
.
Glinda reappears, asks Dorothy what she has learned, and tells her that she could have returned home anytime, but that she would not have believed it was so simple. Dorothy bids her friends goodbye, and returns with Toto to Kansas murmuring “There’s no place like home.”
.
.
* To be accepted into MEF International School, a student must have a passport from outside Turkey.
Last week, Nancy and I returned to Istanbul from Kansas. In the meantime, we spent a lot of time in Munchkinland, a haunted forest, a witch’s castle, and in the Emerald City (not Seattle). In other words, we were involved in the production of two performances of The Wizard of Oz, with Nancy as pianist, and me as music director. The process began in September and ended April 8. As in any large-scale musical production, staging Oz involved many challenges.
.
To begin with, the musical was offered as one of many Friday afternoon activities for the MEF students, such as art, cooking, football, etc. In other words, the students chose to be in the show, rather than being chosen to be in the show. Hence, auditions took place after the talent pool had selected the directors, not vice versa.
.
Next, most of the cast do not speak English at home. They are all between grades 6-9, and only two of them had ever performed on stage before. Enjoy the variety of names of some of the characters (in order of appearance, of course): Dorothy (Aakriti), Aunty Em (Madihah), Uncle Henry (Andrew), Glinda (Karlina), Wicked Witch (Suzan), Scarecrow (Selin), Tin Man (Cemre), Lion (Melina), Oz (Atif), Coroner (Leonie); Barrister (Pranjal). The company included students with passports* from America, Azerbaijan, England, Germany, Holland, India, Italy, Korea, Pakistan, Russia and Spain.
.
The scripts did not arrive until after rehearsals had begun. Incredibly, they were for a Christmas version (Elfkins instead of Munchkins, Good Witch of the North Pole, etc.) The idiocy needed to send an Xmas Oz to a Muslim country is astounding! Bravo! Let’s all bump chests and high-five the idiots. Therefore, the cast did not have correct scripts (compliments of Michael Muzatko), until mid-October, when Nancy returned from the states following her father’s funeral.
.
Rehearsals usually took place in the performance site, the MEF OkullarI (schools) Auditorium every Friday afternoon from 1:00-2:30. The auditorium is a beautiful wood-paneled, cushion-seated facility, comfortably seating 600. It features a deep stage with a partition that conceals the backstage entryway, a well-placed light and sound booth, a large, fixed projection screen (stage left, next to the booth), a larger retractable screen, stage center, and spot lights located in the ample center balcony.
.
However, both screens are serviced by only one projector, which must be adjusted by hand atop an unsteady ladder propped between the seats. Since there are no hanging mics, only one head-mic designed for singers, and since stand mics in front of the stage are unsightly and prone to being knocked over, the only way to communicate between backstage and the sound booth is via walkie-talkie. In addition, the sound engineer must keep his window open be able to hear the actors. Hence, whenever he needs to communicate with the stage manager, the audience hears the walkie-talkie squawk on and off, and the sound of voices above the actors. Also, there is a giant flag of Ataturk next to the sound booth, so that every time one’s attention is drawn away from the stage by the sound of voices, one gets to enjoy Ataturk’s scrutinizing gaze.
.
The stage is very deep, with no wings nor flys. Hence, all set changes have to be done manually by a crew of six slaves wearing black. There is no room backstage to place the various props and sets, so they are left onstage outside of the central action. For example, the Wizard’s booth, in action, was by necessity positioned beside the gate to Oz, complete with the “Bell out of Order” sign.
.
In addition, we lost several rehearsals, three due to weather-related school closures (snow and predicted floods), others to unpredictable school-related conflicts. Some history: the auditorium is shared between the National and the International schools, separate entities sharing common grounds. The National School was created first, so they frequently use the Auditorium without notifying the International School of their intentions. On several occasions, we had to rehearse in the foyer because the stage was taken.
.
The Witch stole the show. Since she has a good singing voice, it seemed a shame to me for her not to able to use it just because the play did not give her a song. So I wrote her one, to the tune of “If I Only Had A Brain.”
.
I’d be vile and I’d be vicious,
My evil so malicious,
My mission—to abuse.
I would need no rhyme nor reason
To be mean in ev’ry season,
If I only had the shoes.
.
If I had the ruby slippers,
Who’d remember Jack the Ripper?
Ghengis Khan would sing the blues.
I could be another Nero
Burning Rome (he’s my hero!),
But I gotta get the shoes.
.
Making me a tragedy
For all humanity.
They would kneel and bow and beg me,
“Please, no more!”
Then I’d sniff,
And slam the door.
.
By the Winkies I am hated,
So I keep them all sedated.
They got nothin’ left to lose.
There’ll be chaos, there’ll be mayhem.
All my whims? You must obey ‘em,
Once I get those ruby shoes!
.
I was concerned throughout the rehearsal process: rehearsals were too short and too far apart, and several had been canceled or disrupted. As show time drew near, lines were still being dropped, projection was still weak, there were technical goofs, etc. Just what a sensible person would expect of a middle school production, right? In retrospect, I caused myself a lot of lost sleep over nothing. (Ding-dong, the brain was dead. Which old brain? Perfection brain!) The show went well, parents and administrators were happy, and kids’ lives were changed.
.
After all, what do you remember about middle school? The first day, the cool/awful teachers, the victories and humiliations, the first kiss. But most of all, for those of us who were lucky enough ... the first time on stage!
.
For the few of you who have been so burdened by the vicissitudes of life that you may not know one the most famous stories of modern times, here is my plot synopsis from the program:
.
The story begins on the Gayle family farm in the center of the U.S.A., rural Kansas. Dorothy, an orphan, lives with her Aunt Emily and Uncle Henry, and three farm hands, Hickory, Hunk and Zeke, all of whom she loves dearly. Her best friend is her dog, Toto.
.
Act One
.
Dorothy dashes home after having saved Toto from Miss Gultch, an influential neighbor. Dorothy tries to tell everyone what happened, but they are too busy to notice. Aunty Em finally tells Dorothy to find herself a place where she won’t get into trouble. Dorothy walks away and dreams about some place where there isn’t any trouble.
.
Miss Gultch arrives at the farm and produces an official document stating that Toto must be destroyed. The Gayles reluctantly agree. Dorothy tries to escape with Toto, but is stopped by the farm hands. Miss Gultch takes Toto and leaves. Dorothy tells everyone she hates them and never wants to see them again. Suddenly, Toto returns and Dorothy decides to run away with him.
.
She stumbles upon Professor Marvel, a phony magician who reads her fortune and kind-heartedly tricks her into wanting to return home. As Dorothy leaves, a powerful storm develops. Back at the farm, everyone is desperately preparing for an oncoming tornado. Dorothy is nowhere to be found. After they all dash into the storm cellar, Dorothy appears and is immediately swept up by the tornado, losing consciousness.
.
Dorothy “awakes” in vividly colorful Muchkinland, where she is greeted by Glinda, Good Witch of the North, and the Munchkins. Dorothy is celebrated by the Munchkins because her house fell on the Wicked Witch of the East. The celebration is cut short by the arrival of the Wicked Witch of the West who, upon realizing that her sister is dead, seeks to obtain the powerful ruby slippers. Glinda, expecting this, transfers the slippers to Dorothy’s feet. The frustrated Witch threatens Dorothy and exits.
.
Dorothy’s sole desire is to return to Kansas. Glinda and the Munchkins direct her to the Yellow Brick Road which will lead her to the Wizard, for only he has the power to help her get home. Dorothy and Toto depart and soon encounter a Scarecrow who speaks, mocking crows and talking apple trees. After tricking the trees into giving up their apples, Scarecrow joins Dorothy on her quest, hoping that the Wizard will give him a brain.
.
The duo discover Tin Man, who joins them in search of a heart. The Witch reappears, attacks Scarecrow with a fireball, and warns him and Tin Man not to assist Dorothy. Undaunted, the trio venture into a dark forest where they meet the Cowardly Lion, who joins them in search of courage.
.
The Witch again attempts to stop them by placing a field of poisoned poppies in their path. Dorothy, Toto and the Lion succumb to the poison, and Tin Man is frozen in grief. Scarecrow’s cries for help are answered by Glinda, who sends snow to counter the effects of the poppies. Act One ends with the four friends skipping off to Oz.
.
Act Two
.
Dorothy and friends arrive at the gates of the Emerald City, where they are met by a guard (the Wizard in disguise), who refuses them entrance. Once informed that Dorothy is wearing the ruby slippers, the companions are welcomed in and entertained by the Ozians. The celebrations are interrupted by the Witch flying above.
.
Dorothy asks to meet the Wizard and, after some delays, she and her companions stand before the “great and powerful” Oz. The Wizard agrees to answer their requests, but only after they bring him the Wicked Witch’s broomstick. They are aghast, but have no choice but to agree.
Meanwhile, the Witch has sent her flying monkeys to capture Dorothy. They intercept the companions in the Haunted Forest, and Dorothy is carried away to the Witch’s castle. Her friends sneak into the castle and are about to rescue her when they are cornered by the Witch and her armed Winkies. When the Witch tries to set Scarecrow on fire, Dorothy throws a bucket of water in his defense. The water douses the Witch and she melts. The Winkies thank Dorothy for setting them free from the Witch’s spell, and happily offer her the broomstick.
.
Back in the Emerald City, the Wizard again refuses to meet the companions’ requests. After Toto discovers that Oz is really only a humbug manipulating things from behind a curtain, Scarecrow, Tin Man and Lion are granted their desires. Dorothy will have to return to Kansas in the Wizard’s balloon. Before she can climb aboard, however, the balloon carries Oz away and Dorothy is left behind. She is bereft.
.
Glinda reappears, asks Dorothy what she has learned, and tells her that she could have returned home anytime, but that she would not have believed it was so simple. Dorothy bids her friends goodbye, and returns with Toto to Kansas murmuring “There’s no place like home.”
.
.
* To be accepted into MEF International School, a student must have a passport from outside Turkey.
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